Landscaping

A Few Border Ideas For Landscape Edging

As a true artist, a gardener puts his soul into his flower gardens, which means that the “frame” should be worthy of these masterpieces. What kind of choice – from stone, metal, wood or fence? The correct decision will prompt the appearance of your site.

You probably noticed how strongly the presence of the frame on the perception of a particular picture or photo. This also applies to edged flower beds – “uneasy ornamentation” is especially intertwined in the landscape context of the garden, changing its “face”. Well, plantings in a stylish frame look like works of art.

What to orient in choosing the material for edging? First, think about whether the frame will be temporary or should last for more than a decade. For example, a wattle fence and a wooden fence (especially softwood and without impregnation with protective agents) will have to be restored from time to time, because wood fibers quickly decompose. But stone and metal can safely be entrusted with the protection of borders for many years. Also, the choice of material largely depends on the style of the garden as a whole and flower beds in particular.

Maximum durability and do not require care primarily “frame” of stone. If the plates are small, it is enough to lay them in a row on a “cushion” of sand or gravel and stabilize with cement-sand mortar. But for the installation of large high plates will have to put more effort, because they need a foundation (more in the block below). In raw form, this material looks great in the garden of natural style, and from polished slabs with clear geometric shapes, excellent curbs are obtained for the site with a classic and modern design.

For rustic flower beds, the ideal solution is clinker. By the way, the bricks do not have to be laid out in a neat row: they can be dug at the border of the landing with an angle upwards – a decorative zigzag fence will turn out.

The last trend in the design of gardens in completely different styles is the use of Core steel. The basis of this simple but very effective and durable material is an alloy of metals, extraordinarily waterproof even without anti-corrosion coating. Natural rust, which thickly covers the profiles, reliably protects the inside of the element from destruction. By the way, the new, freshly acquired Core steel is not in any way different from stainless steel – it has the same characteristic gray color. Rusty-brown patina alloy is covered only with time, from the impact of the “seven winds”.

The secret of the popularity of steel profiles is simple – they are flexible and yet look stylish. And to install such structures do not need an additional basis.

For natural gardens and sites in the country-style fenders are ideal. You can buy ready-made items or make a fence with your own hand from rods. However, remember that the century of this natural material is very short, and live “fences” in a couple of years will have to be repaired or changed.

A long-lasting alternative to a wicker fence is a low wrought-iron curb. It, like the woven product, you just need to install on the border of the flower garden – that’s all!

On the left: simple and tasteful – clay pots, which dustlessly dust in a shed or basement, you can insert one into the other and lay out in a row along the border of the flower garden. Right: there is no room for storing firewood? Fold them neatly stacked between the path and the flower beds – this fence-warehouse looks catchy and unusual.

Simple DIY Guide for Edging

Install flexible systems for framing – garden profiles of aluminum or steel or curbs of rubber or plastic – every gardener can. In our case, we use metal profiles with a height of 15-20 cm.

1. Moisten the soil and dig a trench a few centimeters wide and 4-6″ deep along the flower garden (it should be half the height of the profile). Now carefully remove all roots of plants protruding beyond the designated border.

2. Set the profiles in the trench. In order for them to stand evenly, stick the pegs on both sides.

3. Hammer each profile with a rubber mallet, having preliminarily put a rubber nozzle on the edge of the profile, so as not to bend the metal. Properly ground the ground on both sides of the profile and remove the pegs.

They need a solid foundation

Both low and high fences made of stone or concrete slabs should be installed on a solid foundation. To do this, dig a trench with the foundation. The depth of the pit is calculated as follows: a third of the height of the plate plus an additional 8-12″.

Over the entire length of the trench, pour a layer of about 8″ on the bottom of the gravel and tamp it.
Prepare a cement-sand mortar, pour in a trench a layer of 4-8″ and alternately install the plates in it. Tip: to make the elements stand evenly, pre-tension the cord along the trench.
When the solution has solidified, pour some more rubble on both sides. In the end, distribute the garden land along the fence.